By now I have been volunteering at the hostel for 3 weeks. During that time I have mostly lived by this clock (picture below) The best waves come in when it is close to high tide and the water presses towards the beach. So I would be in the water in about an hour after this picture was taken.
Even though I still do not get every wave and fall often times when trying turns, I am happy to say that I noticed a lot of progress in the past weeks. Surfing for me really is a high effort – high reward sport. Probably 90% of the time in the water you are paddling in order to get out to the point where the waves break. While doing so you have to doge waves and if you are a beginner like me, you will very likely be “washed” by the waves back to the shore and drink a lot of salt water in the process. However, once you get out and are able to relax for a little bit, while waiting for a wave, it is already great. It’s just you and your surfboard and you can enjoy the beautiful view of the nature around you.
(Unfortunately, I dont have a picture from the sea looking at the land.)
And then, once a good wave comes, you start paddeling, shift your weight towards the front of the board, catch the wave and stand up. And for the next seconds you are just going with the flow and it seems like time doesn’t exist – an amazing feeling.
I feel like surfing is a metapher for life. Every wave that you have to doge in order to get out represents an obstracle in life that you have to overcome. It is quite hard in the beginning and many waves and their currents take you back to the shore, which is quite demotivating. But once you are successful, make it out there and get a wave, it is worth the hassle. And the best: it becomes easier with time.
Being fascinated by surfing, I love the motto of the hostel:
However, sometimes the waves are too small to surf (mostly at low tide) which gives me time to read (a lot) and think and reflect, when not working.
So far I have read four books and currently read two, that I would like to share with you:
I started with one about agile project management because it’s something I want to learn and the books teaches the basics. That’s because if I looked for a job after my journey, it would probably be in project management.
Then I read one called “Design the life with the big five for live – the journey continues” – which tells a story about a company and its culture where the company cares about it’s people first and thereby becomes extremly efficient and successful. It was very interesting and eye opening. If I found a company, I would probably design the culture in a similar way.
After that I read Fifty Shades of Grey. I know I am quite late to the party here but it was quite interesting and a nice change to the books before. Also, I was so captured by the book, that I read it in less than three days.
The next book I read is called “Investment Punk” and it is probably the one that impacted me the most so far. The writer argues that the middleclass is used to take on debt to finance a house, a car, a TV or whatever and because those are mostly bad investments, they will never become rich. And his definition of rich is to be able to live freely and do whatever you want when you want. So basically not being chained to a job you don’t really like in order to pay of the debt that you got for buying stuff to impress people. However, he also says that there is smart debt with which you can finance investments that later create a passive income for you.While I would say that I live quite minimalistic without buying stuff I do not really need, the idea about a passive income caught my attention. Even more when I got to know two digital normads from Germany, that are traveling the world while living from the passive income of their internet business (Here is one of the guys Website: https://joetrenk.com/ – where he helps students get good grades in High School). So it can be done. I will definately keep that in mind in the future. Imagine: traveling the world while just managing and creating content for your online business. Now, I guess I just need a good idea 😉
Currently, I am reading “Fuera de series (Outline) – por qué unas personas tienen éxito y otras no from Malcolm Gladwell”, which was given to me as a goodbye present from a good friend in Madrid. It explains that we define success wrong, because we think that success is the result of hard work. However, this is only part of the equation, because things like date of birth, luck, consistency and other circumstances.
Moreover, I read “The hard thing about hard things – building a Business when there are no easy answers from Ben Horowitz”. It’s about the author’s experience in founding and leading a company and super interesting. Let’s see, maybe it will get me one step closer to my new ultimate goal: creating a passive income.
That’s it with the deeper thoughts for now, I am gonna catch some waves 🙂 greetings and hugs from Panamá, Jonas